We have an image of classic French cuisine being complicated, fussy and full of big flavours. These dishes certainly exist but don’t represent real French country cooking. Take cassoulet for example; very rich and hearty, but it’s true magic lies in the subtlety of beans and bay leaf, a hint of tomato and whiff of garlic, with nothing dominating. When done badly, it is clumsy and over-powering. When done right, it is balanced and so good that it’s hard to stop eating!
January often finds us feeling a little lethargic after the excess of the festive season and we crave something simple, comforting and restorative. This recipe for Poule au Pot - a poached chicken in its own broth, served with vegetables and pearl barley hits just the right note. It is a plate of soothing loveliness that will leave you with a smile on your face. Simplicity itself. The better your chicken, the better the broth will be. Feel free to add any other vegetables. Rice may be substituted for pearl barley.
For the chicken
Ingredients
1 x Medium whole chicken, trussed (1.7 to 1.9 kg)
1 x Medium onion halved (you can leave the skin on)
1 x Bulb garlic, halved crosswise
2 x Sticks celery
4 x Medium carrots, peeled (about 250 to 300g cut into chunky batons of about 4cm)
3 x Bay leaves
2 x Sprigs of thyme
6 x Whole black peppercorns
A few parsley stalks if you have any to use up
Salt
Method
Put everything in a large pan and cover with cold water, and add a quarter teaspoon of salt. Bring to the boil, then turn down to a very gentle simmer. Skim and leave to cook for 1 hour.
Remove the pan from the heat. Remove the chicken from the pan and set aside. Strain the broth into another pan and discard the vegetables and herbs etc., apart from the carrots.
When chicken is cool enough too handle, remove the meat from bones in big chunks and set aside.
Return the broth to the stove, bring to the boil and reduce to taste.
For the accompaniments
Ingredients
About 450g small new potatoes, peeled
4 x Sticks celery, peeled and cut into 4cm pieces
75g pearl barley
Handful roughly chopped parsley
Method
Add the pearl barley to broth and simmer till tender (about 45 minutes).
Add the potatoes and celery and cook until tender.
Return the chicken to the broth to warm. Then stir in the parsley and serve with a bowl of freshly made mayonnaise and some crusty bread.
The Perfect Wine Match
Marc Bredif (Ladoucette) Vouvray, Loire Valley, France 2022
A wonderful match for this dish. Made from Chenin Blanc, this is one of the finest Vouvrays around. Focused and fresh with an almost waxy texture, this wine has a tremendous ageing ability.
Attractive nose, slightly herbaceous with integrated peach and citrus fruit. Oozing with character on the palate. Complex, silky texture with a festival of citrus and tropical flavours underpinned with minerality and plenty of freshness. Marathon finish.
Gilbert Chon Cabernet Franc 'Le Tristan', Loire Valley, France 2020
For those who would prefer a glass of red, this would be delicious. Aromatic and charming with a wonderful balance between black fruits and violets, with uplifting acidity and juicy, ripe tannins.
Impressive nose of blackcurrant and cassis with violet overtones. Really juicy and luscious on the palate with ripe, silky tannins that wrap around a core of pure dark black fruits, with a dusting of spice on the finish. Very good indeed.
