Here we are again... one of the most exciting times of the year in the UK. Here in Yorkshire we are particularly blessed with wild game, and the Grouse season is now upon us. These little birds, with their unique flavour, are the highlight of the season for many. You will find hundreds of recipes for Grouse featuring a plethora of rare, expensive ingredients and complicated techniques. For me, the best way to enjoy Grouse is at home with friends. Cooked simply but carefully, with close attention to timing, traditional Grouse is one of the real pleasures of the table, made even better with a glass of Crozes Hermitage le Rouvre 2019 from Yann Chave.
Ingredients (serves 2)
For the Grouse
2 oven ready Grouse
Half a bunch of thyme
1 tbsp rapeseed oil
25g unsalted butter
Salt
For the game chips
1 large potato (Desiree or Maris Piper)
Rapeseed oil for deep frying - Rapeseed oil is lower in saturated fat. Many vegetable oils are made from rapeseed. Those that aren't won't last as long and will impart a strong flavour on the food. Always check the ingredients label on your oil to ensure it is made from rapeseed.
Sea salt and ground white pepper
For the bread sauce
1 small onion, cut into halves
1 clove
10g unsalted butter
225ml whole milk
25g white bread, crusts removed and cut into small squares
25ml double cream
Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
Sea salt and ground white pepper
To serve
50g watercress
Skirlie* (optional)
Method
To make the bread sauce
Finely dice one of the pieces of onion. Saute gently in the butter, stirring continuously until soft but not coloured.
Stud the other piece of onion with the clove. Add to the pan with the milk and bring to the boil. Simmer gently for 15 minutes, then add the bread and continue to simmer for a further 20 minutes. Stir regulary to ensure the bread doesn't stick.
Discard the studded cloved onion. Add the cream and stir to combine, bring to the boil and season with salt, pepper and a pinch of nutmeg. Cover with clingfilm and set aside in a warm place until needed.
To make the game chips
Cut the potato in to 2mm slices. Use a mandolin if you have one, being careful to use the guard.
Rinse the slices under running water and pat fry with kitchen paper.
Heat rapeseed oil in a saucepan to 180°c. Use a thermometer and reduce the heat once the desired temperature is reached. Do not fill the pan more than half way and do not leave unattended. If you don't have a thermometer, add a small piece of bread to the hot oil. If it sizzles and turns golden brown, the oil is ready.
Fry the potato in batches until golden brown. Drain, season with salt and set aside.
To roast the Grouse
Preheat the oven to 230°c or 210°c for a fan assisted oven (gas mark 8).
Season the cavity of each bird by putting half of the thyme in each. Warm a little oil in a heavy frying pan (preferably cast iron) over a medium heat and sear the Grouse all over until an even brown, then remove from pan.
Add butter to the pan and swirl to mix. Place the Grouse back in the pan, baste and transfer to the oven for 4-5 minutes. Repeat this step for each side of the Grouse.
Once removed from the oven, season generously with salt and pepper and allow to rest in a warm place on a clean dish for 15 minutes.
To serve
The Grouse may be served as they are, but I prefer to remove the legs and breasts and serve them neatly arranged on a warm plate with the watercress. Spoon over the bread sauce and a little of the roasting juices. Serve your game chips on the side. If you're feeling extra adventurous, serve some Skirlie (*a delicious Scottish side dish of oatmeal and onion fried until crunchy in butter or chicken fat) alongside the dish.
The Perfect Wine Match
Yann Chave Crozes Hermitage Le Rouvre, France 2019
Le Rouvre is a selection of the oldest vines from a splendidly sited parcel in the south of the Crozes-Hermitage appellation. To add a delicate complexity without overpowering the fruit, the wine is aged in large 600-litre barrels known as demi-muids. This is a delicious northern Rhone Syrah combining fragrant spicy aromas with vivid richly concentrated fruit and a dense, chewy texture.
