Bordeaux Blog

James Goodhart has returned from Bordeaux and has written his Vintage Report for the 2012 wines.  Here is an exert from his report “From my numerous discussions and conversations throughout the week with winemakers and owners, consultants, fellow wine tasters, International buyers, negotiants and courtiers (we never stop talking about it… even over a beer !!) This is a vintage that was made in the vineyard, incredibly intense and costly, where science and technology is playing an increasing role in ensuring the success of the finished product. Deciding upon the optimum time of picking, which rows of fruit to pick at which time (some are using thermal / infra-red technology to discover the riper / hotter parts of the vineyard and picking rows of grapes at different days); this was no “deckchair” vintage as in 2009, a lot of hard work has had to be done. We also discussed …..”  for the full report go to Bordeaux 2012 Vintage Report

He will also publish his tasting notes on the 2012 Bordeaux En Primeur in the next week, with wine critic scores and estimated release prices.

If you are interested in buying En Primeur Bordeaux 2012 wine please contact us in the office and speak with James Goodhart, Manging Director of Bon Coeur Fine Wines.

 

 

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Bordeaux Blog
En Primeur 2012 Tastings

Really, wet misaberable day in Bordeaux yesterday but not all is doom and gloom. Alter Ego and Palmer 2012 were joyous wines, lovely black fruits concentration. Jean-Louis Carbonnier who showed used the wines reckoned the merlot was as good as in 2009 which is why the Alter Ego has 51 percent and the Palmer 48 percent. 

Off to Rauzan Segla next for  a quick taste of an elegant, trez bon,  Rauzan Segla. Back across the road again to Chateau

Margaux where we where shown the wines by Paul Pontallier owner of Pavillon Blanc, Pavillon Rouge and Margaux. They have been trying to go organic and 2012 was going to be the first year, however due to the extreme weather they were force to spray once (they would normally spray 6 or 7 times).  Paul Pontallier made an interesting comment  “15 years ago the results of the 2012 vintage would have been considered as a great vintage but we can’t say that after our higher expections after 05, 09 and 10. The Vintage is better than 01, 02, 04, 07 and 08 and stylistically like 10 and 04.  The 2004 has the elegance and purity but not the density of 12”

From Chateau Margaux we headed to UGC Margaux tasting at Labegorce where we tasted D’Angludet, Brane Cantenac, Cantenac Brown, Dauzac, Desmiral, Du Tertre, Giscours, Kirwan, Labegoce, Malescot Saint Expurey, Lascombes, Marquis de Terme, Monbrision, Prieure Lichine, Rausan Gassies and Siran.

From Labegorce, we had a quick lunch at Le Leon D’or (Golden Lion) one of Bordeaux famous restaurauts before heading to Chateau D’Agassac (Ludon) for the Alliance de Cru Bourgeois tasting where we had a quick speed tasting of an hour – 45 Cru Bourgeois tasting before a dash back up to Margaux to Chateau D’Issan to taste their Blason D’Issan and Chateau D’Issan which were both a joy. Rain still lashing down, if they are not careful the 2013 will turnout to be an ‘English Vintage” !!

From D’Issan we raced to The UGC Pessac tasting at Chateau Olivier – Nightmare journey and got stuck on the Rocade (Bordeaux’s ring road) for over an hour before getting to the Pessac tasting 5 minutes before it closed but they kindly let us taste for 20 minutes, patiently waiting so a big thank you at everyone working at the UGC tasting, it was greatly appreciated. The Haut Bailly and Haut Bergy along with the Domaine Chevalier Rouge (fourth time tasted). From Olivier it was back to Bordeaux for dinner with Bill and Ralph Sands, Bordeaux Buyer for Kand L.  We tasted a few more wines from Bill Blatch’s Cellar. Pavillon Blanc 99, D’Armailhac 2010 and Lagrange 2009 to see how the wines were getting one. Figeac 89, Ausone 89, Leoville Barton 86 and Lynch Bages 82  (thank you Bill, very generous and interesting wines and thanks for having me to stay for the week – its been fun!).

This morning, I have just tasted Haut Brion, which is fabulous, it has a fantastic depth and purity am now off to Climens for final barrel tastings back to the Airport, heading home to my own bed and my family.  It has been a great trip, well worth the effort.  I hope you have all enjoyed reading and following – thank you for your comments and interest.   I have tasted over 700 wines this week….  I am now in need of a good Yorkshire beer – Theakstons is calling me home!    Will now start writing up my notes for my Bordeaux Vintage Review for 2012 and keep you posted – I am back in the office on Monday.  Have a Bon Weekend!

James Goodhart
Managing Director
Bon Coeur Fine Wines

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Bordeau En Primeur Tastings 2012
Welcome to our Bordeaux Blog

Left at 7am yesterday as I had to drop Steve Webb (Bill’s partner in Bordeaux Gold) at the airport before racing up to the North Medoc to Calon Segur where we tasted Capbern Gasqueton, Calon Segur and Marquis de Calon. Then onto Montrose to taste Tronquoy – Lalande, Dame de Montrose and Montrose which where all fantastic.

From Montrose we popped the other side to Cos D’Estournel where we bumped into the Justerini’s gang (3 lots of red trousers). We wondered if there is a collective noun for this, suggestions were “a Ploom”, “a Gay” or even “a Cavalry” !! At Cos we tasted Goulee, Les Pogedas de Cos, Cos and Cos Blanc, which were simply Gorgeous. It was a refreshing change to be tasting Cabernet dominated wines rather two days of (right bank) Merlot dominated wines.

With ½ an hour to spare before our meeting at Lafite we headed to Phelan Segur for the UGC St Estephe, Pauillac and St

Julien tastings where I tasted Beychevelle, Gloria, St Pierre, Branaire Ducru. Before heading to Lafite (Carruades, Duhart Milon, Lafite) which was an enjoyable line up.  Back to its more traditional style after a couple of blockbuster vintages, more my style than Mr Parkers. From Lafite we headed to their cousins at Mouton Rothschild where we tasted D’Armailhac, Clerc Milon, Petit Mouton and Mouton Rothschild. Mouton I often find hard to taste at this time but it was like a graceful lady, sophisticated, with lovely depth and purity.

From Mouton it was up to Grand Puy Lacoste where we tasted Lacoste Borie (charming), Haut Batailley and GPL. I also got a chance to interview Francois Xavier Borie, “The gravel soils that we have at Grand Puy Lacoste really helped in 2012.  If I have to compare the vintage it’s a bit of 2001,1999 and 1998”.

From GPL it was back across to the other side of Pauillac to taste Pontet Canet normally one of the stars of the vintage and the 2012 is no exception. We were given an impressive lunch with a cheese board (should probably say cheese table) that went on forever, it was on a table about 20 foot long.

After Lunch we headed to Leoville Lascases we tasted the following properties with their 2nd wines. Nenin (Pomerol), Potensac, Clos du Marquis and Leoville Lascases. From LL we headed to Ducru Beaucaillou where Monsieur Borie called it “The Glorious 12th, enriched by Diversity!, excellent Archetypal claret and a homage to Fan Bingbing” ! The wines were good, very polished style rather like his quotes.From Ducru we headed back up to Phelan Segur to finish off the UGC tasting where we tasted a lot of big names. Gruaud

Larose, Lagrange, Langoa Barton, Leoville Barton, Leoville Poyferre, Talbot, Batailley, Croizet Bages, Haut Bages Liberal, Lynch Bages, Pichon Baron, Pichon Lalande Cos Labory, de Pez, Lafon Rochet, Les Ormes de Pez and Phelan Segur.  From Phelan Segur we headed to Fourcas Hostens in Listrac for the Moulis and Medoc tasting where the big names were La Lagune, Cantemerle, Chasse Spleen, Poujeaux, La Tour Carnet etc.

Time had slipped away from me throughout the day, I had to go back to Bill’s house get changed and attend the Cammanderie du Bontempts dinner in the middle of town. Good food and some memorable wines Climens 49, Doisy Daene 71, Montrose 83, Pichon Lalande 2000, Lafaurie Peyraguey 2007, Guiraud 2005, Latour 1999, Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc (awesome) 2010, SHL Rouge 2004, Poujeaux 2003 – A truely Memorable Evening.

Today its Palmer first thing, Margaux, Rauzan Segla and the Margaux UGC tasting at Labegorce. Lunch it at Barbier Arcins and then the UGC Cru Bourgeois tasting and UGC Pessac tasting at Chateau Olivier (wish me luck..!)

Thank you for your interest – For further reports and information on Bordeaux En Primeur 2012 go to our website

James Goodhart
Managing Director
Bon Coeur Fine Wines

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Bordeaux En Primeur Tastings 2012
Welcome to our Bordeaux Blog – Tuesday

This is the end of Monday. From the Grappa tasting we got an invite up to Eglise Clinet to taste the Wines of Denis Durantou who’s wines of Saintayme (St Emilion Grand Cru) and Chateau Les Cruzelles and La Chenade (Lalande the Pomerol) often listed amongst our star value buys and this year was no exception. Denis commented “wines have a lower acidity and higher PH that will make the wines more approachable early” His wines had a lovely purity and elegance and really liked the La Petite Eglise (second wine of Eglise Clinet).

From Eglise Clinet it was back to Bill’s for a bite to eat and we were joined by some more American’s including a Film Director called Bob Bajorek, nice guy and made me look small…..

Tuesday was a bit of a rush as it was “Pavie for breakfast” time and we were due at Pavie for 8.30am where we tasted all of Gerard Perse wines. It was raining hard when I left Bordeaux. My little car, didn’t enjoy all the spray on motorway but we made it just in time. These wines had been toned down this year and were much more approachable (no aggressive tannins that attacked us last year). Espirit de Pavie, made in the Clos Lunelles (Castillon) and the second wine Pavie and Monbousquet. The big names where Pavie, Pavie Decasse, Bellevue Mondotte and Monbousquet, my favourite out of these was Pavie Macquin.

From Pavie, it was a 5 minute drive to Chateau Canon where we tasted a very elegant, precise wine. We were told they got all their grapes in (including the Cabernet Franc) as their vineyard elevation on top of the plateau helped early ripeness.

From Canon we went across to the Union des Grands Cru tasting at Chateau Soutard where some of the big names where Figeac, La Dominque, Canon La Gaffieliere, La Gaffeliere, Troplong Mondot. La Dominque was probably my favourite although the Troplong Mondot I liked but it was a bit of a Parker wine. Interesting data on the Troplong Mondot, They started picking the young merlot (9th – 12th October) Old vines Merlot between 15th-17th October, Cabernet Franc 19th October and the Cabernet Sauvignon on the 23rd October. This is 2-3 weeks behind the norm.
From Soutard we went a small tasting called ‘Les Estampes’ at Chateau Haut Sarpe where we tasted about 30 wines ranging from St Emilion Grand Cru, Lalande de Pomerol and Montagne-St- Emilion.

We then headed back to Pomerol for a tasting at VCC (Vieux Chateau Certan) with Alexander Theinpont who said “ if I had to compare the 2012 to another vintage it would be 1985. It’s a vintage all about balance and pedigree”. The VCC was gorgeous, slightly polished but just as good as Cheval Blanc.

From VCC we popped next door for the Pomerol UGC tasting at La Conseillante where we had a lunch and tasted all the UGC Pomerols. My favourites were La Croix de Gay and Gazin. I was impressed by the overall quality.

After Chateau La Conseillante we went to the Sydnicat de Pomerol tasting in the town hall in Pomerol which was mainly all the small Pomerol properties – About 80 in total, Favourites were Clos Rene, Clos St Andre and Ch Gouprie to name a few but the overall quality was really good (looks like the Merlot has done well).

From the Town Hall we headed to Lalande de Pomerol to taste Angelus at Chateau La Fleur Bouard plus all of the Hubert de Bouard portfolio. From La Fleur Bouard we headed back to taste Evangile which was a well crafted 2012. Recommended.

Back to St Emilion to taste the Chateau Teyssier wines, including Pezat (Bordeaux Superier), Teyssier, Laforge, Le Carre, Vieux Chateau Mazerat and la Dome before dashing to the Entre-deux-Mers to Chateau de Sours to taste Martin’s Le Source, Petit Cantenac and Clos Cantenac which were all very good.

Right bank is now finished. It’s an early start again (for Wednesday) as I have to be ready for my first tasting of the day in the Medoc at 8.30am at Calon Segur followed by Montrose (9am), Cos D’Estornel  (9.45am), Lafite Rothschild 10.30am, Mouton Rothschild 11.00am, Grand puy Lacoste (11.30) and Pontet Canet at (12pm). So it’s a little mad, what we call Chateau hopping!

Thank you for your interest – For further reports and information on Bordeaux En Primeur 2012 go to our website

James Goodhart
Managing Director
Bon Coeur Fine Wines

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Bordeaux En Primeur Tastings 2012
Welcome to our Bordeaux Blog – Monday

We started the day at Cheval Blanc. Both Petit Cheval and Cheval Blanc were well structured, elegant, precise wines. as usual a high proportion of Cabernet Franc.  It was good to see Pierre Lurton, Director winemaker of Chateau Cheval Blanc who commented “2012 was a techincal vintage, long harvest that was great for Cabernet Franc. Interesting and exciting to make. ”

Next stop was the Syndicat de St Emilion tasting in the Salle des Dominicains in St Emilion where I ploughed through the majority of the 60 plus Grand Crus before looking at Puisseguin and Lussac. Will try to go back today if I have time to look at the Castillons, Fronsac etc if I can find a spare ½ an hour.   Overall I was impressed.

Up to Fombrauge to taste all of Bernard Magrez wines, Pape Clement Blanc was my favourite.  The reds were of a modern, creamy, polished style that will please the masses. Our Lunch stop was impressive, cooked by Joel Robuchon, Michelin starred chef who owns a number of restaurants including L’Atelier in Covent Garden, unfort I had to run half way through to go down to Libourne for my appointment at the Moueix tasting.

Edouard Moueix said “it’s a vintage which will be approachable young. Average on 40% down on last year due to thesecond generation bud break. It is similar to 2001 but we need to see if it will age as well”. What happened is a cold front came through during budding and split the crop. They took the decision to cut off the second generation fruit before both went red in colour over wise the danger is they have un ripe fruit in the final blend. I was also tipped off the Moueix might be releasing their wines next week. Wines were more finesseful that some of the Grand Cru Classe’s that I tasted but should be enjoyable in a couple of years. My favourites were Belair Monange and La Grave, Pomerol and Plince from his more entry level wine.

From Moueix I went back to Chateau La Couspaude for Grands Cru Classes tasting to finish off the GCC’s that I hadn’t tasted before lunch. Then it was on to Chateau La Gaffeliere for the Grappa tasting which was all Stephane Derenoncourt wines, this was my first chance to Smith Haut Lafitte and for the second time Domaine Chevalier Rouge again which was majestic.

For further reports and information on Bordeaux En Primeur 2012 go to our website

James Goodhart
Managing Director
Bon Coeur Fine Wines

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Bordeaux En Primeur Tastings 2012
Welcome to our Bordeaux Blog – Sunday

Today our focus was a big tasting at one of the leading negotiants, a UGC tasting and  Planate Bordeaux.  Today we focused on the Cru Bourgeois and Bordeaux Superiore.  In our group we tasted over 250 wines, personally I tasted over 100.  My initial first impressions are its better than the 2011 vintage.  In some of these wines I found good concentration of flavours, and have been pleasantly surprised.

Today I also met with the Proprietor Emmanuel Cruse from Chateau D’Issan in Margaux.  Discussing the 2012 vintage he comments:- “Having been considered marginally superior to 2011, this vintage has revealed itself, as tasting have progressed, the be significantly superior to its predecessor, and, without achieving the density and structure of 2009 and 2010, will certainly be amoung the finest of the decade.”

Completed the day with a Chateau Guiraud Evening Reception  hosted by Robert Pougeot, Olivier Bernard (Domaine Chevalier), Stephan von Neipperg (Canon La Gaffeliere and La Mondotte) et Xavier Planty who are all share holders in Chateau Guiraud.

The 2012 Domaine de Chevalier Rouge was  first rate, not as complex and sophisticated as the 2010 and 2009 but first rate. Its still slightly modern, seductive style but in tune with its Pessac roots as slightly back to it traditional style.  I hope the price goes the same way.

Managed a vertical of Guiraud, 1998 (out of Imperial), 2001, 2003, 2007 and 1996. All were really good, however note to those who have this wine for my palate the 1996 is going slightly butter scotchy which means that its needs drinking but still some acidity so no real rush.

Monday morning will kick off with an early start at Cheval Blanc , probably just when you were brushing your teeth! More soon……

James Goodhart
Managing Director, Bon Coeur Fine Wines
Bordeaux En Primeur 2012

For further reports and information on Bordeaux En Primeur 2012 go to our website

 

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Bordeaux En Primeur Tastings 2012
Welcome to our Bordeaux Blog – Sauternes Saturday
Arrived in Bordeaux on the red eye from Luton, having set off at 1.30am from Yorkshire.  Collected the car – well if you can call it that (more on Facebook/BonCoeurFineWine) and started with a tasting of 24 bottles of 2003 Sauternes and Barsac which was a really useful tasting. The verdict is the wines are showing well, still good acidity and some are still very youthful. Plenty of lemon marmalade, and bucket loads of sweet, ripe fruit. Some wines were a bit disjointed where the grapes got a bit too much heat on the vines but the tasting was very enjoyable.  Favs were- Climens was top followed by Suduiraut, Guiraud, La Tour Blanche (sweetest) and Laflaurie Peyraguey.

2012 Sauternes Tasting
Overall there are some very charming wines however with D’Yquem, Reuissac, Suduiraut, Fargues, Raymond Lafon and Chateau D’Arce not going to release it is going to be a difficult vintage for Sauternes. These are all properties that are on the southern ridge with a couple of exceptions but it was all down to the terroir and properties with dry terroir have suffered the most. The basic problem started with un-even flowering and a drought in August/ Sept and it then became a race as to who could get to the botrytis stage before the next rain.  It is thought that Climens (tasting on Friday as they don’t give out samples) seems to have done the best. Properties like Guiraud only produced 24 barrels from 92 hectares and La Tour Blanche also only had 24 barrells from 37 hectares. Ch de Fargues only made 10 barrels and haven’t decided yet if they are going to release however they would loose 3 barrels in samples so they have decided to withdraw from the 2012 tastings.
My favourites yesterday where Ch de Veyres and Broustel ( Fargues), Liot (very close to Climens), Doisy Daene, Doisy-Vedrines, Myrat, Coutet, Rabaud-Promis and Rayne Vigneau.

A long day – finished off with sausages (happy Yorkshireman) and some great wine at Chez Bill Blatch on Saturday night – our generous host had brought a few bottles from his cellar.   Leoville Poyferre 89 was my wine of the night, closely followed by the Haut Brion 2001 and the Angelus 90.

Bill Blatch kindly gave us permission to produce his Sauternes Bordeaux Gold report – click on the link here to view Sauternes 2012 vintage report – Bill Blatch

 

James Goodhart
Managing Director, Bon Coeur Fine Wines
Bordeaux En Primeur 2012

For further reports and information on Bordeaux En Primeur 2012 go to our website

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