Bordeaux 2023 Vintage Report
As many of you are aware we have had a busy week in Bordeaux tasting the 2023 vintage. After our Ultra Marathon of 7 days tasting, we visited over 70 Chateaux and tasted over 400+ wines. This campaign is kicking off as I write, so there is little time to reflect on the vintage and write up our tasting notes as the Chateaux have already started to release the wines. On Friday (we were still in Bordeaux!) Chateau d’Angludet was the first to be released, followed today by a host of wines including Chateau Batailley – at £162 IB per 6x75cl - and a bouquet of Sauternes; Chateaux Guiraud, Doisy-Daene, Rayne Vigneau, La Tour Blanche as well as Sigalas-Rabaud… it’s a sign of things to come and we anticipate releases will now come thick and fast.
To reflect, overall, 2023 is a good vintage and in certain places, is exceptional. As always it was important for us to go to the Union des Grands Crus (UGC) En Primeur week and taste first-hand, there are certainly a few wines to avoid; green tannins, unripe fruit, and a lack balance with some feeling a bit forced, as the winemaker has seemingly tried too hard with their vinicultural techniques. There are also wines at the opposite end of the spectrum; a bit light between the mid and back palate, a few were disappointing.
Bordeaux 2023 in the vineyard was a complicated vintage; one of extremes. Winter was mild apart from a cold snap in February, and March. More importantly, rainfall was around average and sufficiently topped up the water reserves; a welcome respite following a dry growing season in 2022, and unknowingly ahead of the summer heatwaves to come in 2023. Mild weather continued in the latter part of March, and a homogenous budburst occurred promising the prospect of a good harvest.
April and May saw warm and wet weather, which increased the threat of mildew and in turn, saw many Chateaux employ teams into the vineyard to combat the disease as much as they could. Flowering ensued toward the end of May, and suggested again an ample harvest was on the horizon. Preventative measures, however, were carried on into June with a rapid fruit set, and several Chateaux noted they employed rigorous canopy management (leaf thinning) to aid circulation around grapes bunches and vines, to reduce the continued threat of mildew. It was also evident that many estates decided to green harvest; the act of removing fruit from the vine to aerate and balance the leaf area, as well as giving the remaining bunches the opportunity to ripen properly. Véraison began in mid-July and was successfully completed by the end of the month.
August started off quite cool, with lack of sunlight, then quickly changed with an intense heat wave mid-month (roughly 12 days with temperatures exceeding 30°C). The warm weather continued into September, accelerating the ripening process and many estates began to pick around the 5th (some of the earliest recorded harvests). However, rains mid-month paused the vineyard teams progress, and therefore the harvest was spread out over several weeks and into October (again some of the longest on record). Those who paid meticulous attention to detail on what (Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon/Franc and/or Petit Verdot), where (sometimes specific parcels), and when to pick, have produced the best wines.
Unlike in 1998 where it was a complete Merlot (Right Bank) vintage, the elongated harvest helped ripen the Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon in 2023. The rain, followed by an Indian Summer, helped them achieve full physiological ripeness whilst maintaining balanced potential tannin and alcohol levels.
And I know many of you will ask, is there a vintage to compare? We asked many winemakers this same question and got the same response, there isn’t really a vintage like it. This was a very different growing season and certainly was no deckchair vintage both in the vineyard and the chai (cellar).
As such, 2023 offers wonderful ripeness, without being too overpowering; it’s a modern vintage, retaining the terroir DNA to provide balance, drinkability, wonderful freshness, and texture. Those Chateaux who got it right shone through, proffering superb individuality gained by their unique terroir and viticulture. It’s a winemaker’s vintage.
Price, like always, is key and the Chateaux need to reward customers for their loyalty for buying En Primeur. After much discussion the general view for many, including us, is that estates need to reduce their release prices to be in line with 2019 prices, and for some of the less favourable, mid-level wines, to be 10% below that. Only time will tell, and we are sure we won’t need to wait long!
We’ve already been on the phone to Negociants and have a rough idea of this week’s schedule. If word on the grapevine is correct, we will be in touch very soon, there are some big names that are saddled up and ready to enter the stalls.
We have compiled a list of favourites and ones to watch, see our recommended buys. You can also view our release diary and have a full 360 view on our Bordeaux 2023 homepage.
All wines for sales are offered En Primeur, price in sterling delivered to our bonded warehouse at Moor Park. Price excluding VAT, onward delivery and VAT, all subject to remaining unsold E&OE.
Should you have any questions we will be delighted to talk you through the vintage, do give James or Andrew a call.
Finally, do check our Bordeaux 2023 Release Diary where you can view all releases as and when they happen, read our views, and get to grips with market sentiment. We will be sending out regular En Primeur emails throughout the campaign, should you wish to be included in this distribution, please email wine@bcfw.co.uk and we will add you to our mailing list.