Burgundy 2010 – Vintage Review by James Goodhart.

It is most definitely a vintage for ‘Burgundy lovers ‘ No hype’ like in 2009. On the whole the quality of the 2010s varies a lot more between producers and villages. Where the 2009’s were luscious, seductive more fruit driven, the best of 2010s are elegant, refined more precise in balance between the acidity and the fruit and we think have the potential to lay down for longer. Reminds me of a beautiful, well educated, classy, long legged filly with plenty of staying power!

It was a vintage with many problems, challenging growing conditions which started with temperatures of minus 20 degrees in December 09 which killed an average 5% of vines and weakened numerous more. Cold and wet conditions during the crucial flowering resulted in loss of crop due to coulure and millerendange. The Summer was very wet giving more problems of rot and disease. September was dry and cool which saved the vintage however this resulted in concentration of the grape must and very small grapes. Sorting tables to select the best bunches was essential.

Back at the winery the low yields meant a high ratio of skin to juice which can result in high tannins, body and colour unless monitored correctly. The 2009 vintage in comparison almost made itself whilst the 2010 vintage needed an expert hand and gentle guidance.

My overall view is that the 2010 is richer and riper than the 2008 and 2007 vintages and more in-line with the 2006 and 2002 vintage. Commenting on the 2010 vintage, Arnaud Mortet (Domaine Denis Moret) says “ A great vintage and one of the best for 10 years. I prefer 2005. There is not the same weight, but the balance is very nice. 2009 was fruity and flattering, but for me the 2010 has more freshness, elegance and is more Pinot Noir”.

For me it’s more about the acidity balance, more typical classic burgundy, that will offer more longevity than the 2009’s. We have tasted many wines over the last month and have selected the producers we feel have made the best wines of the vintage, our highlights include: Domaine Faiveley, Rossignol Trapet, Nicolas Potel at Maison Roche de Bellene and Bertrand Ambroise.

Investment Wine

The Grand Cru Red Burgundies are increasingly becoming more front line / first grade investments. With China showing more interest in the better Burgundy Domaines and more sophisticated, they are looking for investments outside of Bordeaux. Prices are starting to move, allocations are under more and more pressure with is a good sign.

The 2010 Grand Cru and 1er Cru are all down on allocations due to the lower yields and increase in international demand. Many of these have been sold on allocation.

See our full list of Burgundy 2010, or you can see the wines we have available from the producers we have bought from this year -

Domaine Faiveley

Domaine Faiveley with 115 hectares split between an estate of 78 hectares in Mercurey and 37 hectares in the Cote d’Or is one of the largest vineyard owners in Burgundy. Now under the guidance of Erwan Faiveley who took over in 2004 he mixes the principles of modern oenology with tradition maturation in French oak barrels, in their 19th C vaulted cellars. The vineyards are run with dramatic precision, nothing is left to chance, from selecting the vines, Faiveley replant around one/thirtieth of the vineyard each year, to ensuring low yields though guyot-pruning and strict ebourgeonnage and if necessary a green harvest further reduces the crop. The quality of the 2010’s is without doubt a vintage of classic excellence, the Domaine has achieved great consistency throughout each of the villages.

Maison Roche de Bellene – Nicolas Potel
It is always a pleasure to see Nicolas his passion for Burgundy wine is tremendous and very infectious. Maison Roche de Bellene’s philosophy is to select only the best grapes working with the vineyards to produce outstanding wines, to produce what he calls the “Haute Couture” of wine. Nicolas is a great believer in biodynamics and is working towards Organic status in the vineyards.

“Not the richness of the 2009, more the style of 2002 with good acidity and not too much tannin” Nicolas Potel

Nicolas has matured some of some of his wines in 600 litre demi cask to make sure the wines don’t get over oaked / dry out. The 2010 vintage, is a vintage of subtly.

We met Nicolas in London so we didn’t have the chance to taste all his wines but both Samantha and I walked away grinning ear to ear, In one word Nicolas’s 2010 are ‘stunning’ and he offers some of the best value in the Côte de Nuits. It is no surprise that he is now selling wines in 42 countries around the world.

Rossignol Trapet
Quality has soared since brothers Nicolas and David Rossignol converted the domaine to biodynamic viticulture. In particular, the wines display significantly more depth and concentration than when they took over from their father in the 1990s. In 2010, they picked late, starting on 29th September, in order to obtain the maximum ripeness and maturity. The yields are the lowest since the early 1990s and the wines have unusual richness and structure as a result. It’s getting harder and harder to get an allocation. They impressed me greatly.

Bertrand Ambroise
Bertrand and his son François own just over 16 hectares of vines in Nuits St George and Corton. In 2010 yields were low after poor weather during the crucial flowering period reduced the potential size of the crop. Harvesting, however, took place in good weather at the end of September and beginning of October. Ripeness was perfect and not a single wine required chaptalisation. Bertrand will bottle the 2010 reds a few months earlier than last year in order to preserve the maximum of fruit.

I was hugely impressed by Bertrand Ambroise 2010 and actually prefer them to the 2009’s which were glitzy and more fruit driven. His 2010 are more classy and elegant with a tremendous acidity / fruit balance. Both Bertrand and myself think they will cellar for longer. Bravo.

Bertrand described his wines as “almost perfect, great concentration, really good balance with ripe tannins and longevity”

For further informtion contact Bon Coeur Fine Wines Ltd – Tel: 01765 688200

2009 RED BURGUNDY – WINE OFFER – BON COEUR FINE WINES

2009 is an excellent vintage for red burgundy and has been compared by many influential figures in the trade as being on par with the 1989 and 1999 vintages.

When I met Nicolas Potel recently he described the 2009 vintage in terms of quality to be ‘somewhere between the 1989 and 1959 vintage’ 

‘2009 is a lovely, luscious, fruit forward vintage recalling earlier famous “9” – 1999, 1989 and perhaps even 1959’ Jasper Morris MW (Decanter Magazine, Feb 2011)

 ‘2009 is very seductive, stylish and homogenous’ Frederic Drouhin

It has been a real joy tasting the 2009 red burgundies. With such a good vintage, fighting for allocations has been a challenge, however I feel we  have selected a fabulous portfolio from the vintage.  In some cases there is less fruit concentration that the opulent 2005 vintage, on the other hand they have great balance and a seductive nature that will offer great pleasure in future years.

If you want any advice please do not hesitate to call me.

James Goodhart – 01765 688200

Managing Director, Bon Coeur Fine Wines

 
Note: All wines will arrive In Bond in September 2011.  Prices are In Bond excluding VAT, duty and delivery / under bond transfer from LCB Bond. 

DOMAINE FAIVELEY

Francois Faiveley’s son, Erwan Faiveley has been running the Domaine since 2004  and as a result the quality has taken a huge leap. Improved vineyard management, smaller yields and better quality barrels have made a huge improvement in the quality.

One of the biggest Domaines with 115 hectares split between 78 hectares in Mercurey and 37 hectares in Cote d’Or,

Best vintage since Francois’s acclaimed 1990 vintage.

Mercurey Rouge 1er Cru ‘La Framboisiere’ 2009   £125.00
Mercurey Rouge 1er Cru ‘La Framboisiere’ 2009 MAGS £135.00
Attractive, forward raspberry aromas with added summer fruits. Enhanced on the palate with sweet ripe raspberry fruits, a touch of cassis, good balance and subtle tannins. Drink Now -2018

Mercurey Rouge 1er Cru ‘ Clos de Myglands’ 2009   £139.00
Mercurey Rouge 1er Cru ‘ Clos de Myglands’ 2009 MAGS £149. 00
Wow. Richer, more concentrated and seductive than the Framboisiere with more raspberry puree, elderberries and cherry. Sweet, ripe fruit with complexity that flows into a smooth, long seductive finish. Yes please. Drink Now -2018

Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru ‘Les Damodes’ 2009    £325.00
Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru ‘Les Damodes’ 2009  MAGS £335.00
Favourite of three 1er cru, ‘Les Poret’ and ‘Aux Chaignots’ being the other two. Expressive, rich, ripe red berry fruit that continue on the palate with a velvety texture, balance and structure. Drink 2013-2020

Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru ‘La Combes aux Moines 2009  £350.00
Favourite vineyard, last bought in 2005 but much more seductive than I remember the 2005 from Cask. Limited allocations. Drink 2013-2020

Echezeaux Grand Cru 2009  (6x75cl)    £375.00
Echezeaux Grand Cru 2009  (3x150cl)  MAGS £385.00
Mega wine. Impressive, multi-layered fruit but despite its concentration it has plenty of finesse. Drink 2014-2022+

Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru 2009 (6x75cl)    £375.00
Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru 2009 (3x150cl)  MAGS £385.00
Concentrated raspberry puree with more mineralic spice on the nose. On par with the Echezeaux with slightly higher acidity making it slightly fresher. Top Class – Oozing with finesse. Drink 2015-2025+

Latricieres Chambertin, Grand Cru 2009   (6x75cl)   £400.00
Latricieres Chambertin, Grand Cru 2009   (3x150cl) MAGS £410.00
Slightly closed on the nose but still obviously a serious wine. Excellent depth and structure on the mid-palate that flows through into a wonderfully complex finish Drink 2015-2025+

Mazis Chambertin, Grand Cru 2009    (6x75cl)   £490.00
Mazis Chambertin, Grand Cru 2009    (3x150cl) MAGS £495.00

MAISON ROCHE DE BELLENE

This is Nicolas Potel’s new company after he parted company with his previous partners who own the right to the ‘Nicolas Potel label’.

Nicolas’s allocations are much smaller however, the quality is exceptional. He rates the vintage somewhere between the 1959 and 1989 vintage which could be interpreted as the best vintage since 1959.

Nicolas is one of Burgundy most exciting ‘new generation’ of wine makers. His 2009’s are the best I have ever tasted

Bourgogne Pinot Noir ‘Vieilles Vignes’ 2009     £79.00
Bourgogne Pinot Noir ‘Vielles Vignes’ 2009  MAGS £89.00

Cotes de Nuits Villages ‘Vieilles Vignes 2009    £95.00

Savigny Les Beaune Villages 2009      £135.00 
Volnay Vieilles Vignes 2009       £180.00
Volnay Vieilles Vignes 2009     MAGS £190.00
“The Volnay is very well defined on the nose with raspberry coulis and wild strawberry. The palate has a juicy, sappy entry, good acidity with good weight on the assertive finish. Fine.” Tasted January 2011 89 points Neil Martin

Nuits Saint Georges ‘Vieilles Vignes 2009     £210.00
Nuits Saint Georges ‘Vieilles Vignes 2009   MAGS £220.00
Impressive richness comes from 60 year old vines and a mixture of clay sold. Good, luscious, red berry fruit with a hint of liquorice. Drink 2013 – 2020

Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Les Murgers 2009    £330.00
Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Les Murgers 2009  MAGS £340.00
“The Murgers has a very floral bouquet with touches of blueberry and violet. The palate has a gorgeous, caressing palate, more Vosne-like in character with fine tannins on the finish. Great value – this comes highly recommended. Tasted January 2011” 91-93 points Neil Martin

Chambolle Musigny ‘Vieilles Vignes’ 2009    £240.00

Gevrey Chambertin ‘Vieilles Vignes 2009      £200.00
Gevrey Chambertin ‘Vieilles Vignes 2009    MAGS £210.00
Impressive loganberry and summer fruits well integrated with a good acidity balance and structure. Drink 2013 – 2020

Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru ‘ Combes de Moines’ 2009   £350.00
Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru ‘ Combes de Moines’ 2009 MAGS £360.00
Slightly closed on tasting but excellent underlying fruit and structure. Currently not as generous as the village Gevrey but has the hallmarks of a great Gevrey. Drink 2015 to 2025

Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru ‘ Les Cazetieres’ 2009   £390.00

Vosne Romanee Vieilles Vignes 2009     £240.00
Vosne Romanee Vieilles Vignes 2009   MAGS £250.00

We only have a very small allocation of the Grand Cru

Echezeaux Grand Cru 2009  (6x75cl)    £345.00
Echezeaux Grand Cru 2009  (3x150cl)  MAGS £355.00
Wow. Impressive concentrated fruit, sweet, juicy red currants that is enhanced on the palate. Serious stuff. Multi-layered and complex with finely structured tannins. Shows great promise. 2015-2025+

Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru 2009   (6x75cl)  £345.00

Clos de la Roche, Grand Cru 2009   (6x75cl)  £325.00

Charmes Chambertin, Grand Cru 2009   (6x75cl)  £325.00

Latricieres Chambertin Grand Cru 2009   (6x75cl)  £325.00

Chambertin ‘Clos de Beze’ Grand Cru 2009 (6x75cl)  £595.00

ROSSIGNAL TRAPET

Now run by Nicolas and David Rossignal. They now destem 100%, pick slightly later to make richer and enhancing the texture of the wines. In the vineyards they have converted to a Biodynamic (organic) Viticulture.

They have a total of 14 hectares under vines. We have never seen so much demand for these wines

Gevrey- Chambertin Vieilles Vignes 2009     £235.00
Gevrey- Chambertin Vieilles Vignes 2009  MAGS  £250.00

Concentrated nose of raspberry fruit. Solid structure with a seductive berry texture that follows through onto the palate with under-lying minerality.

Gevrey – Chambertin 1er Cru ‘Clos Prieur 2009    £445.00
Concentrated nose with excellent purity. Beautiful knitted / balanced with elegant fruit on the palate.

Gevrey – Chambertin 1er Cru ‘Combottes’ 2009    £445.00
Slightly juicier in style. Fresher than the Clos Prieur but full of charming raspberry fruit.

Chapelle – Chambertin Grand Cru 2009  (6x75cl)  £350.00

Latricieres – Chambertin, Grand Cru 2009 (6x75cl)  £350.00

Chambertin, Grand Cru 2009   (6x75cl)  £475.00

 

BERTRAND AMBROISE

Bertrand took over Maison Ambroise from his father-in-law in 1987. He removes many of the leaves around the bunches of the grapes to get riper tannins and has de-stemmed all the Pinot Noir since 2002 and macerates up to 28 days.  In total he owns 17 hectares of Vines mainly in Nuits Saint George

This is the first time we have actually bought from Bertrand – we have been following him for a number of years, this vintage he has really impressed us.

Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2009       £95.00
Impressive, juicy, succulent red berry fruit with good balance and freshness that flows through into a good lingering finish. Surprising depth and structure for a BPN. Hard not to drink it all now. Now until 2015. Average age of vines 60 years

Nuits Saint Georges 2009       £210.00
Excellent depth and intensity but still with purity and class. New oak (40% new barrels) adds a touch of cream but lovely red berry fruits that slows through into a seductive finish.

Nuits Saint George 1er Cru ‘En Rue de Chaux’ 2009   £320.00
Concentrated with raspberry puree that flows through with the seductive velvety texture. Shows great promise. Yes Please !

Vosne Romanee, ‘Aux Damaudes’ 2009     £280.00
Abundant ripe, sweet red berry fruit and again very seductive. Punches above its weight for a village wine. Better than many 1er crus we have tasted.

Vougeot 1er Cru ‘Les Cras’ 2009      £380.00
Mega concentrated nose with some black berry fruit and a hint of liquorice. Despite the concentration with has elegance and purity. Impressive.

Corton  Grand Cru ‘Rognet’ 2009  (6x75cl)   £265.00
Very good. Great concentration of ripe red berry fruit. Enhanced on the palate with depth, structure with excellent grip and refined tannins. Contender for best value Grand Cru.

Clos Vouget Grand Cru 2009  (6x75cl)   £375.00

Echezeaux Grand Cru 2009   (6x75cl)   £375.00

JACQUES CACHEUX

This is the first time we have managed to get an allocation from Jacques Cacheux.  Wine making is now under Pascal Cacheaux’s who is a true believer in the terroir of the regions at his disposal.  

Bourgogne Rouge ‘Les Champs d’Argent 2009    £108
Impressive nose with packed red berry fruit. Delicious concentration of red berry with a touch of cherry. Well balanced and good structure for an entry level BPN. (cask sample tasted January 2011) Drinking 2012 to 2018. JG

Nuits Saint Georges ‘Au Bas de Combe’ 2009    £220
Lovely perfumed nose. Touch of raspberry puree with good concentration. Enhanced on the palate with rich, ripe summer fruits, touch of spice. Well integrated and balanced on the mid-palate that flows through into a smooth long finish. (Cask sample tasted January 2011) Drink 2014 to 2020

CHANDON DE BRIAILLES

14 Hectares under wines mainly in Savigny, Pernand-Vergelesses and Corton . They have been biodynamic since 1994.

They without doubt produce some of the finest Savigny and their ‘Les Lavieres’ has become a cult wine with its generous texture and finesse.

Savigny Les Beaune 2009       £175

Savigny Les Beaune 1er Cru ‘Les Lavieres’ 2009    £210

Corton Bressandes Grand Cru 2009     £500

Corton Clos du Roi Grand Cru 2009     £620

DOMAINE DES PERDRIX

Bought by Bertrand Devillard in 1996.  The Domaine gets its name from the 1er Cru Vineyards in Nuits St George called ‘Aux Perdrix’ which translates into partridge which also features on the label . The vineyards are a minimum of 40 years old.

In total they hold 10 hectares in Nuits Saint George and Chambolle Musigny. They are not yet officially certified organic producers but they haven’t used any sprays or pesticides since 2000 and only use compost or organic fertilisers.

No expense is spared in the quest for the best wine. All the grapes are sorted by hand and only the very best oak barrels are used. The concentration of his wines are impressive. Allocations are small.

Nuits Saint Georges 2009       £295
Impressive colour with a dark red core. Nose confirms an impressive concentration of raspberry puree that is enhanced on the palate with a velvety texture and good structure. This is better than a lot of 1er cru Nuits  I have tasted. 50 year old vines.
Drink 2014 to 2020+

Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru ‘Aux Perdrix 2009    £440
Wow. We tasted this against their Echezeaux Grand Cru and it so nearly won overall but under half the price it was the star buy. Similar style to the Village Nuits but more seductive, velvety fruit and structure. Drink 2018 to 2025

Vosne Romanee 2009       £320
Made from 3 vineyards in VR. Quartier de Nuits, Cimetiere and Chalandins. Impressive, concentrated, red berry fruits with the characteristic velvety, seductive nature but with more minerality than the Nuits. Drink 2014 to 2020+

 
DANIEL RION

This is the first time we have managed to get an allocation from Domaine Daniel Rion which is run by Christophe, Olivier and Pascale. Sadly allocations are small.

18 hectares under vines, with significant holding in Nuits Saint George. The vine foliage is pruned high to allow more sunlight and riper tannins and like many of the top Domaines they are against using sprays.

Bourgogne Rouge 2009       £105.00
Pure and fresh with red berry fruit and elegance.

Cotes de Nuits Village ‘Le Vaucrain’ 2009     £145.00
Perfumed, delicious red berry fruit. Pure and fresh on the palate with finesse
That follows through into a lingering finish

Nuits Saint Georges ‘Les Grandes Vignes’ 2009    £235.00
On par with some 1er Cru that we have tasted. Some of the vines were planted in 1924. Low yields. Great purity with multi-layered red berry fruit. Slightly tight on the end of the palate but will open up with age –

Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru ‘Les Haut Pruliers’ 2009   £345.00
Lovely concentration and a step up from the Les Grandes Vignes. Fresh red berry fruit, slightly perfumed nose but explodes on the palate with seductive raspberry and blueberries fruit.

Vosne Romanee 1er Cru ‘Les Beau Monts’ 2009    £345.00
Very impressive with a gorgeous velvety texture. Multi-layered mid palate that flows into a very long, impressive finish. Bravo.

Echezeaux, Grand Cru 2009   (6x75cl)  £295.00
The wines were planted in 1935

Clos Vougeot, Grand Cru 2009   (6x75cl)  £330.00
Average of 40 year old vines.

JEAN-JACQUES GIRARD
One of our favourite producers. We like Jean Jacques wines as they offer great purity and elegance that is beautifully married with an aromatic, fruity style.

Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2009       £109.90
Best I have tasted from Jean-Jacques Girard and we wouldn’t have got an allocation if we hadn’t taken the 2008 vintage. Perfumed nose of freshly squeezed summer fruits. 
   
Savigny Les Beaune Rouge 2009      £135.00
Very pure, concentrated, free run raspberry juice that flows through into a juicy mid-palate and an elegant finish

Savigny les Beaune 1er Cru ‘Peuillets’ 2009    £165.00
Due to high demand we had an allocation of ‘Les Lavieres’ reserved for us but on tasting we found the Peuillets to be the star. Riper, richer sweet red berry fruit with an added layer of seductive, sexier red berry fruit.

Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru Fichots 2009    £145.00
An under-rated village just around the corner from Corton with steep slopes and a mix of clay and limestone soils. Concentrated red berry fruit with a touch of minerality and well structured tannins. Impressive value for money.

Aloxe Corton 2009        £169.00
Not a village wine that we normally buy but we were really impressed by the purity, and beautifully balanced fruit, finesse and structure. Excellent.

VINCENT GIRARDIN

He started in 1982 with 3 hectares and now has over 17 hectares of Prime Cotes d’Or. Known more for his seductive, rich, creamy white wines he also produces some excellent red wines.

He has been described by Jancis Robinson as one of her top ten European wine makers, which is praise indeed.

Chambolle Musigny Vieilles Vignes 2009     £230 
Chambolle Musigny Vieilles Vignes 2009   MAGS £240

Vosne Romanee, Vieilles Vignes 2009     £240

Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru ‘Les Cazetiers’ 2009   £370
Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru ‘Les Cazetiers’ 2009 MAGS £380

Buy this and other fine wines online – on our website

 
ENDS
26th January 2011

The number of wines on our list is expanding all the time, and we relish the opportunity to show some of the wines in our range to our customer’s at our annual wine tastings.

Some of the most exciting wines to be added to our list recently are the wines of Sumaridge, South Africa. Winemaker Gavin Paterson (formally of Hamilton Russell) is passionate about his wines and the sheer quality is remarkable.

Also new to our list and definitely worth trying are the new ‘Mapu‘ wines from Chile (owned and run by Domaines Baron Philippe de Rothschild). The best thing about these wines is that they offer great value for money without compromising on quality.

At this year’s tastings we will be showing a wide range of wine from all over the world including; from Burgundy, we have the new wines from Henry Fessy, Nicolas Potel, Verget, Vincent Girardin and JJ Girard. An interesting selection of clarets including Gigault Cru Bourgeous 99, Dasvin Belair 98 and the Larose Beauloieu 2001.

In the coming weeks we have the following wine tastings, please let us know if you would like to attend:

North Yorkshire – Masham
Masham Town Hall, Masham, North Yorkshire HG4
Thursday 9th October 5.30pm to 9pm (more…)