Burgundy 2010 – Vintage Review by James Goodhart.

It is most definitely a vintage for ‘Burgundy lovers ‘ No hype’ like in 2009. On the whole the quality of the 2010s varies a lot more between producers and villages. Where the 2009’s were luscious, seductive more fruit driven, the best of 2010s are elegant, refined more precise in balance between the acidity and the fruit and we think have the potential to lay down for longer. Reminds me of a beautiful, well educated, classy, long legged filly with plenty of staying power!

It was a vintage with many problems, challenging growing conditions which started with temperatures of minus 20 degrees in December 09 which killed an average 5% of vines and weakened numerous more. Cold and wet conditions during the crucial flowering resulted in loss of crop due to coulure and millerendange. The Summer was very wet giving more problems of rot and disease. September was dry and cool which saved the vintage however this resulted in concentration of the grape must and very small grapes. Sorting tables to select the best bunches was essential.

Back at the winery the low yields meant a high ratio of skin to juice which can result in high tannins, body and colour unless monitored correctly. The 2009 vintage in comparison almost made itself whilst the 2010 vintage needed an expert hand and gentle guidance.

My overall view is that the 2010 is richer and riper than the 2008 and 2007 vintages and more in-line with the 2006 and 2002 vintage. Commenting on the 2010 vintage, Arnaud Mortet (Domaine Denis Moret) says “ A great vintage and one of the best for 10 years. I prefer 2005. There is not the same weight, but the balance is very nice. 2009 was fruity and flattering, but for me the 2010 has more freshness, elegance and is more Pinot Noir”.

For me it’s more about the acidity balance, more typical classic burgundy, that will offer more longevity than the 2009’s. We have tasted many wines over the last month and have selected the producers we feel have made the best wines of the vintage, our highlights include: Domaine Faiveley, Rossignol Trapet, Nicolas Potel at Maison Roche de Bellene and Bertrand Ambroise.

Investment Wine

The Grand Cru Red Burgundies are increasingly becoming more front line / first grade investments. With China showing more interest in the better Burgundy Domaines and more sophisticated, they are looking for investments outside of Bordeaux. Prices are starting to move, allocations are under more and more pressure with is a good sign.

The 2010 Grand Cru and 1er Cru are all down on allocations due to the lower yields and increase in international demand. Many of these have been sold on allocation.

See our full list of Burgundy 2010, or you can see the wines we have available from the producers we have bought from this year -

Domaine Faiveley

Domaine Faiveley with 115 hectares split between an estate of 78 hectares in Mercurey and 37 hectares in the Cote d’Or is one of the largest vineyard owners in Burgundy. Now under the guidance of Erwan Faiveley who took over in 2004 he mixes the principles of modern oenology with tradition maturation in French oak barrels, in their 19th C vaulted cellars. The vineyards are run with dramatic precision, nothing is left to chance, from selecting the vines, Faiveley replant around one/thirtieth of the vineyard each year, to ensuring low yields though guyot-pruning and strict ebourgeonnage and if necessary a green harvest further reduces the crop. The quality of the 2010’s is without doubt a vintage of classic excellence, the Domaine has achieved great consistency throughout each of the villages.

Maison Roche de Bellene – Nicolas Potel
It is always a pleasure to see Nicolas his passion for Burgundy wine is tremendous and very infectious. Maison Roche de Bellene’s philosophy is to select only the best grapes working with the vineyards to produce outstanding wines, to produce what he calls the “Haute Couture” of wine. Nicolas is a great believer in biodynamics and is working towards Organic status in the vineyards.

“Not the richness of the 2009, more the style of 2002 with good acidity and not too much tannin” Nicolas Potel

Nicolas has matured some of some of his wines in 600 litre demi cask to make sure the wines don’t get over oaked / dry out. The 2010 vintage, is a vintage of subtly.

We met Nicolas in London so we didn’t have the chance to taste all his wines but both Samantha and I walked away grinning ear to ear, In one word Nicolas’s 2010 are ‘stunning’ and he offers some of the best value in the Côte de Nuits. It is no surprise that he is now selling wines in 42 countries around the world.

Rossignol Trapet
Quality has soared since brothers Nicolas and David Rossignol converted the domaine to biodynamic viticulture. In particular, the wines display significantly more depth and concentration than when they took over from their father in the 1990s. In 2010, they picked late, starting on 29th September, in order to obtain the maximum ripeness and maturity. The yields are the lowest since the early 1990s and the wines have unusual richness and structure as a result. It’s getting harder and harder to get an allocation. They impressed me greatly.

Bertrand Ambroise
Bertrand and his son François own just over 16 hectares of vines in Nuits St George and Corton. In 2010 yields were low after poor weather during the crucial flowering period reduced the potential size of the crop. Harvesting, however, took place in good weather at the end of September and beginning of October. Ripeness was perfect and not a single wine required chaptalisation. Bertrand will bottle the 2010 reds a few months earlier than last year in order to preserve the maximum of fruit.

I was hugely impressed by Bertrand Ambroise 2010 and actually prefer them to the 2009’s which were glitzy and more fruit driven. His 2010 are more classy and elegant with a tremendous acidity / fruit balance. Both Bertrand and myself think they will cellar for longer. Bravo.

Bertrand described his wines as “almost perfect, great concentration, really good balance with ripe tannins and longevity”

For further informtion contact Bon Coeur Fine Wines Ltd – Tel: 01765 688200